Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
10
Time Required
02:00:00 - 05:00:00
Missing Images
This guide needs more images to properly convey the procedure being described.
Tools
No tools specified.
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Remove negative battery terminal connection
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Remove starter
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Remove battery and tray
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Remove intake
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Remove shift cable cotter pins and remove cables
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Remove cable bracket
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unplug VSS and reverse light switch
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Remove slave cylinder and hardline bracket
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Loosen transmission mount
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Loosen rear torque bolt
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Loosen transmission pilot bolt (3 top bolts)
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Loosen hub nuts on both axles
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Loosen wheel lugs
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Jack the car up as high as possible; place jackstands securely
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Drain transmission oil
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Remove wheels
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Remove lower ball joint castle nut, and cotter pin
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Remove passenger-side radius rod
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Remove hub nut
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Use a balljoint separator to separate lower balljoint
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Lift and spin hub out while removing axle from hub
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Use pry bar between transmission and axle end to pop out axle from transmission
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Similar process, but axles are slightly different.
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Remove 3 bolts holding intermediate shaft to engine block, then remove it
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Remove center crossbeam
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Remove engine/transmission torsion brace
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Remove bolts from rear transmission mount (one or two bolts in engine block)
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Remove additional bolts holding transmission to engine block
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Grab your transmission jack. Place it beneath the transmission to provide support while the trans. mount is removed.
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Remove two studs from transmission to gain extra clearance and clear mainshaft
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After removing mount, carefully use pry bar to break transmission free from engine block.
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Pull transmission away from engine block until main shaft can clear clutch pressure plate.
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Slowly lower transmission while rotating it towards the rear of the vehicle in order for shift fork to clear crossmember.
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Pneumatic tools can be helpful for removing flywheel/pressure plate bolts.
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If you don't have access to air tools, you can use something else (like a pipe with the end crushed) to wedge between the flywheel teeth and the ground. This will prevent the flywheel from moving while you loosen the bolts. There is also a flywheel holder tool.
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Remove all bolts from pressure plate and flywheel, then remove each component from the engine. Inspect the flywheel for damage. If damaged, or just for peace of mind, have it resurfaced or replaced before reinstalling.
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Use blue Loctite on flywheel bolts, and torque to 76 ft/lbs. Use a criss cross sequence for tightening, and tighten the bolts in several steps. (Don't just tighten them all the way down one by one. Tighten one bolt a little bit, then tighten the bolt directly across from a little bit, and continue until all bolts are at the specified torque.)
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Use alignment tool to hold clutch disk to the flywheel to insure the mainshaft is inserted straight
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With alignment tool in place, torque pressure plate bolts to 19ft/lbs. Use the criss cross pattern and tighten sequentially, like explained in step 8 for the flywheel.
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Remove clutch shift fork, release bearing and the shift fork spring.
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Use brake cleaner or solvent to clean debris from spring and fork.
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Apply grease to shift fork and transmission mainshaft (use sparingly on the shaft).
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Reinstall fork and spring.
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Slide release bearing onto form and push down until it clicks into place.
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Continue reassembly by simply following steps in reverse order. Remember to re-torque the rear mount bolts.
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Originally created by 98vtec for PreludePower.com
Edited and adapted to Dozuki for wikiHonda.com
Originally created by 98vtec for PreludePower.com
Edited and adapted to Dozuki for wikiHonda.com
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